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Setting up your bandsaw the right way enhances work safety and productivity. The process of setting up a band saw is straightforward if you follow the proper steps.
The key to achieving good results with a bandsaw include:
- Understanding how the blade functions and how to align it.
- Using the correct blade setup procedures – tracking and tension
- Understanding the outcomes of different blades
- Using proper sawing techniques
Step by Step Guide on How to Set Up a Bandsaw
1. Settle Down the Table
Set up the bandsaw table at a level and flat surface in your working space. Ensure that the surface is firm to reduce vibrations that would compromise your safety.
The table should be square to the blade. Beneath the table, there is a bolt with a lock nut and trunnions. It helps to adjust the table to a perfect square. You can also use them to change the table to any angle you desire.
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You can also use an engineer’s square to measure the accuracy of the table. Place the square up against the blade, making sure there are no gaps.
Make the necessary changes by moving the leveling stop bolt and the table until you get an accurate 90-degree angle. Complete the process by setting the bolt.
Ensure that the table insert is slightly higher at the back and lower at the front. You can achieve this by filing at the front and building up the rear with tape. A thin ply will work well for the insert. Also, there should be proper clearance around the table.
2. Set Up the Blade
Installing and aligning the blade is the most crucial part of the bandsaw setup process. The first step is to unplug the saw. Then, adjust the blade by opening the wheel box.
Blade selection is an essential consideration and should be guided by your work requirement. If you are working on large and dense material, a larger blade with smaller TPI will be the best. If you are making curved cuts, a smaller blade is what you need.
Ensure that your blade is at the center of the wheel for better performance.
3. Blade Tensioning and Tracking
Proper blade tensioning enhances better performance and produces smooth cuts. Some bandsaws come with tensioning scales/ gauges. But, it is recommendable to tension your blade manually because the tension scales are inaccurate most of the time.
To correctly tension the blade, open the top wheel box and place your finger on the side of the blade, then push towards the saw’s spine. Ensure that you maintain a deflection of 3/8 inches (9.5 mm) while applying moderate pressure with your finger.
Applying little pressure on the spine leads to under tensioning the blade. And if you use a lot of pressure and get no deflection, the blade will be over tensioned.
After setting the tension, confirm if the blade is in the correct tracking. On a crowned wheel, the blade should be at the center of the wheel.
On flat-wheeled machines, blades 3/8 inches and smaller are tracked at the center of the wheel. Those that are 1/2 inches and larger are tracked with the teeth hanging off the edge of the wheel.
Tracking while rotating the wheel by hand solves major tracking adjustments problems.
4. Blade Guides Adjustment
Blade guides are of two types: side guides and thrust bearing. Most bandsaws have blade guides below and above the table, and they are set the same way.
Side Guides
This step is critical as it determines your cutting accuracy. Side guides are either mild steel blocks or roller bearings. They prevent the blade from twisting.
Here, you will need to confirm the positioning of the guides at both sides of the blade and ensure it is correct.
The most accurate distance between the blade and the side guides should be 0.5 mm. The side guides should never come into contact with the blade or be set parallel to the blade teeth. Doing so could cause the blade to get broken as it moves.
You should also adjust the side guides on 1/16 inches (2 mm) behind the deepest part of blade gullets. The guides should be behind the blade teeth to prevent the teeth from passing through the guides directly during a cut.
If both of your side guides are horizontal, the best way to set them is by pinching them against the blade. Then, rotate the wheel at a quarter of a turn. As the blade moves through the two guides, it will slightly separate them.
Thrust Bearing
Start by setting the thrust roller bearing at the back of the blade. There should be a gap of 1/4-inch or less between the blade and the bearing on the smaller blades. The gap should be about 1/32 inch on more giant blades to allow room for feed pressure absorption.
You can do this by rotating the wheel until it touches the blade. Then, back off slightly as soon as the bearing starts spinning, and there you have your 1 mm gap.
If your thrust bearing is adjustable from left to right, set it in a way that the blade intersects the bearing at about 3/16 inches from the bearing’s outer edge. Adjust the bottom and top thrust bearings in a similar manner.
5. Fence Alignment
At this stage, your bandsaw is almost complete. But you need to go a step further if you wish to use your bandsaw for resawing.
To set up the fence, you will need an engineer’s square. Lock the fence in place and then push the square up against it. If there are any alignment issues, you can correct them on the fence rail.
The blade and the fence work together most of the time. As such, they should be aligned with each other.
After completing the above adjustments, reconnect the power and switch on the saw. Confirm if the blade tracking is in place and check out for excessive vibrations.
If everything is okay, the setup process is complete, and your bandsaw is ready for use!
